Hartman Inc.

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Engine

Boost Bottle Theory

Boost Bottle theory is that the boost/equalizer /tube/bottle is a passageway between intake manifolds with a fixed volume, usually the CC of one cylinder or larger, a (momentary) storage container for pre-atomized fuel/air mixture.

Since the fuel/air mixture is at a high velocity while traveling through the intake manifold, guess what happens when the reeds suddenly close? The mixture has inertia and physics would suggest the fuel/air mixture has to dissipate this inertia, through a tube maybe?

This inertia (pulse) forces the pre-atomized mixture that's already in the tube from the previous cycle into the next intake manifold that's reeds are just opening and ready to receive the fuel/air mixture, this is like a little supercharger to each cycle. This all happens so fast at higher rpm's that it is most effective at lower and mid-range where you are on/off throttle.

It takes venturi velocity to atomize the raw fuel from the main jets. The tube/bottle has a charge of pre-atomized fuel that is instantly ready when you go from off to on throttle. It assists in filling the cylinder for a fraction of a second until the carburetor venturi gets enough velocity to fully atomize the available fuel. The advantage is that it brings up the torque and horsepower sooner in the bottom of the rpm range. These have been Dyno tested and proven to work, they show 10hp low end, 4hp at mid rpm, and a 2 hp increase on top end.


BOOST BOTTLE 700 TRIPLE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

This kit is designed to increase the performance of the snowmobile, use CAUTION . Hartman Inc. will not be liable for damage or personal injury on any modifications performed.

The Hartman Inc. Boost Bottle Kit increases the bottom end of your power band by 8-10 HP by bringing up torque and horsepower sooner in the RPM range, it was not designed to add to peak horsepower, just get you there quicker.

1. Remove airbox, carbs, intake manifolds and reed blocks use rags to keep from dropping anything in the motor (don't forget to take them out, it's happened).

2. Install reed spacers and gaskets then reed blocks then intake manifolds. Make sure all gaskets seal correctly and there are no air leeks. Do not over tighten manifold bolts.

3. Lube intake manifold portion of feed tubes with Yamalube oil.

4. Slide boost bottle clamps onto the feed tubes of bottle itself.

5. Slide feed tubes of bottle into feed tubes of manifolds while holding clamps onto bottle then secure clamps over feed tubes of manifold.

6. Use Yamabond #4 on the inside of machined press fit rings to insure there are no air leaks prior to installation onto carbs.

7. Install machined press fit rings on carbs using small hammer and block of wood so you don't nick the edges of the rings they are machined to very tight tolerances. Tap on evenly until they are flush with throat of carbs.

8. WARNING: Your center carb may hit the steering column because of the large straight shape of the new manifolds (stock one's are offset). It will wear through the corner of the float bowl and injury to personnel and equipment could occur if the following changes aren't made.

(Tips) If your center carb hits use one or all the tips listed below.

Loosen all four motor mounts, place washers under rear motor mounts so that the center carb will clear the steering column safely. NOTE: You can also silicone *" rubber pads to the tunnel where the airbox contacts to help tip the carbs up and away from steering column when the airbox bolts are tightened.

Move motor towards clutch side to help carb clear steering column. Install new spacer over jackshaft behind driven clutch and re-align motor so clutches will operate properly. Example: The clutch specifications for a 700-mountain max are 268-270mm center to center with 15-17mm offset. Torque motor mount bolts to 29ft pounds

9. Install carbs, fuel lines, airbox, throttle cable, choke cable and electrical connections to factory specifications. WARNING: Make sure there are no fuel leaks and throttle works properly without binding before operating engine.


BOOST BOTTLE PARTS KIT
1	Boost bottle


3	Manifolds Yamaha

3	Hose clamps Yamaha

3	Aluminum adapters

2	steel washers

1	Nylon clutch spacer

Boost Bottle Kit

V-Force reeds, Boost Bottle, and Dial-A-Jets Installed.

Engine

There is no replacement for displacement

750cc big bore puts you in the neighborhood of 86 ft/lb. torque and 140hp at 8600-RPM with pipes, reeds, trail porting, and boost bottle kit.

Where your see the most improvement is not at peak but in the bottom-end, increases of 30-40ft/lb. torque and 40-50hp at 6000-RPM.$399.00(Parts Only)

Our custom porting and head work adds 10-14hp and 6-9 ft lbs or torque to your sled with "stock" reliability. Through extensive testing on our shop sleds, we have found a balance between high horsepower and reliability. All porting is hand profiled and headwork is CNC machine cut to maintain proper squish band and volume. Beware of just flat cutting the head to increase compression. You have to re-cut the squish band also. We have recognized detonation problems through testing, caused by not enough clearance at the outer edges of the squish band if it is not re-cut. Porting starts at $570.00

Big Bore Kit

Let your triple breath like it should, add SLP "Quiet Triple Pipes" for a gain of 25HP at only 76.1dB. (stock dB 75.2) $790.00

SLP Quiet Triple Pipes

Ceramic Coatings

Coating transfers heat evenly throughout the pipe for more consistent performance.
Reduces under hood temps by keeping the heat in the pipe.
Look's good. Prevents corrosion. Starting at $300.00