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Clutch must be in good working condition with no worn rollers, clutch weights or bushings. Also the spider must have minimum side clearance.

Clutch efficiency is the most important part of your sled.

Tightening Steps: Only if removal is needed.

1. Initial tightening to 88 ft-lb.

2. Loosen the bolt and re-tighten the bolt to 44 ft-lb.

3. Clutch alignment center to center is 267mm. The offset is 15mm-17mm.

Clutch Alignment goal:

1. Get the drive belt to the top of the secondary sheaves on the driven clutch. (Adjust belt height).3 bolts back

2. Belt must run in center of drive clutch.

Clutch Alignment setup:

1. Loosen the motor mount bolts in order adjust the motor position. On older sleds only.

2. Don’t forget to loosen the motor torque stop if your sled has one.

3. Also, shim the secondary (driven) clutch in or out.

4. Always use new drive belt for proper set-up.

Clutch Tuning: NOTE Make sure no snow dust gets on clutch or belt, check side covers or added vent kits.

This is the most difficult part of your snowmobile and the most overlooked. The “Rule of Thumb” is, if you want to change the engine RPM for engagement or shift rpm, work on the Primary clutch. If you want to improve upshift or backshift, work on the secondary clutch. (High efficiency is “Free Horsepower”). Proper Gearing must match with clutching for your applications.

Clutch Tips: Periodically clean the clutches. Brake Clean works well. Put a towel in the belly pan to pick up mess. “Hot Tip for Carlisle”: Wash your drive belt with hot water, soap, 409, Simple Green, etc. Also, use a brush to scrub the sides clean. Let it air dry. A clean belt lowers the heat and slippage and allows more acceleration. NOTE: Late model clutches use special bushing that needs NO LUBE.

Belt Brake In: Wash and Break in new belts 30-40 miles. Do not overhead the belt during break in. It’s a good idea to have your extra belt broke in and ready to go.

Warning: We have had a large number of YVXC Clutches Blow-up. Please inspect your primary clutch sheaves for heat cracks from the center, working outward or groves cut in sheaves. I feel the cracks are from very high heat due to all the belt slipping. Remember the Factory Clutching is set on a general set-up. “This should work for most of the machines we ship to the USA”. (Ha-ha).

The Yamaha 8DN belt is very hard and has a high amount of slipping, which will create heat and loss of acceleration resulting is cracked clutch sheaves. The only “good” thing is that it will last forever. Harder is NOT BETTER for performance. We use the Carlisle XS-805 which is softer and longer, this enables us to get the drive belt to the top of the secondary sheaves on the driven clutch. Carlisle has a one year warranty, refer to the back of the belt sleeve. Buy “two” and you have a lifetime supply of belts.

Less slipping is “Free Horsepower”.


More tech tips on web-site plus printable color catalog on web

Hartman Inc. 400 S Grays Ln Nampa Id 83687          208-468-1073